Spa's and swimming pools need to be regularly maintained and most of this maintenance involves water treatment and testing devices as well as other equipment.  There are many different variables that need testing for and are therefore numerous types of equipment on the market to help with this.

One thing that you may test for when maintaining your pool or spa, would be oxidation reduction potential.  ORP meters are available to measure this to oxidise contaminants.  ORP meters will help to monitor as well as control water suitability in a commercial or domestic swimming pool.  ORP meters are available in a variety of forms, including a bench meter.  Waterproof, portable ORP Meters are the most suitable for testing swimming pools and spas.  There are several handheld, waterproof ORP meters to choose from and they vary greatly in price.

Instruments that test for pH levels are very popular for all kinds of water testing applications.  pH meters are used regularly within the pool and spa maintenance industry.  pH meters give a precise measurement of pH values present within a sample of water / liquid.  Most Ph meters that are used to test pools are handheld probes which generally cost a couple of hundred pounds.  There are more expensive probes which test for pH but these tend to be stationary bench models.

A more sophisticated piece of machinery which is also manufactured specifically for testing swimming pools is the DCW Controller.  The DCW controller tests for chlorine levels, pH and temperature of the water tested.  The DCW controller can be used for all kinds of swimming pool and spa water treatment.  pH and water temperature can be tested accurately and chlorine levels can be controlled as well as continually measured using this device.  Chlorine control and testing is important when dealing with swimming pools as levels need to be maintained at a safe level.  The DCW controller is suitable for beginner's use but is more expensive than individual meters such as pH or ORP.

Water Treatment Devices available for purchase

All of the above instruments are available for purchase from online suppliers of water treatment devices.

Checking the chlorine level in a pool is not as simple as you might think.

That's why the test should be put in the hands of the professionals, especially if we are talking about a pool that is in constant public use.

Hotels and resorts will need to know exactly what the chlorine levels are at all times - and it's not just the chlorine which needs testing, but other chemicals and hygiene routines, too.

Hotel guests are increasingly aware that a well run leisure facility needs more than just a lifeguard on hand to ensure that spa heaven does not turn into spa hell.

It's up to the operators to put in place the right safety and maintenance procedures.

It is not just a question of keeping an eye on the customers, but on the equipment and facilities they are using as well, including the very water they are enjoying splashing about or swimming in.

Did you know, for instance, that there is a difference between free chlorine and total chlorine in a pool? Similarly with bromine.

'Free' chlorine is the level of chlorine left which is able to efficiently sanitize the water. 'Total' chlorine is the level of both free chlorine and chlorine molecules which are 'spent', known as chloramines and therefore no longer doing the sanitizing job efficiently.

So it is important when testing swimming pool chemicals not simply to just gauge the total chlorine level, but to know exactly how effectively the free chlorine is working.

The readings will be different depending on how often and how well the pool water is 'shocked' and oxidised, and professionally cleaned.

It is also important to check the pool water's PH level, testing the acidity and alkalinity of the water.

Unless you know the true chemical balance of the water you could end up with a pool that no-one wants to swim in - or worse - one that leaves customers feeling ill or in danger of acquiring an unhealthy infection.

That is why you should always call in the professionals.

Hot Tub Start-Up Instructions For Bromine or Chlorine

VOLUME: 3. - FEBRUARY 2009

Spa Start-Up: Brominating Concentrate

First Time Start-Up

1. Fill your spa with water. If the make-up water is from a well or other  nonmunicipal source, testing prior to filling is recommended.
2. Super-oxidize the spa with Brominating Concentrate with spa circulation system  turned on. Run all pumps at least one cycle.
3. Operate the spa circulation system for at least 2 hours.
4.  Drain, then rinse interior surfaces and refill. Follow draining instructions in  owner's manual. The reason for doing this is because spas are tested with water  and when they are shipped there is some water in the plumbing. By  super-oxidizing with a sanitizer during a pre-fill, you lessen the opportunity to contaminate the water with bacteria.

Refill Guide

1. Adjust pH (7.2-7.6), total alkalinity (80-120 ppm) and calcium hardness (100-200 ppm).
2. Apply Brominating Concentrate following label directions. Establish proper bromine residual of 3-6 ppm.

Daily Care

• If the hot tub is used daily Bromine Concentrate must be added after use, or at the end of the day.
•  If the hot tub is not used daily - Bromine Concentrate should be added every 3rd day.

Weekly Care

• Add Teddy Bear Stain and Scale Control.
• Apply Teddy Bear Water Clarifier.
• Test the pH. Acceptable range is 7.2-7.6. Ideal range is 7.4-7.6.
• Test total alkalinity of the water. Proper range is 80-120 ppm.

Monthly Care

• Test your water - Bring a sample to Teddy Bear Pools & Spas for analysis.
• Chemically clean your filter with Bear Strip Filter Cleaner.

As Needed

• Drain, clean, polish and refill based on usage.
•  If foaming occurs use Teddy Bear Anti-Foam.

Spa Start-Up: Chlorinating Concentrate

First Time Start-Up

1. Fill your spa with water. If the make-up water is from a well or other  non-municipal source, testing prior to refilling is recommended.
2. Super-oxidize the spa with Teddy Bear Chlorinating Concentrate with the spa circulation system on. Run all pumps at least one cycle.
3. Operate the spa circulation system for at least 2 hours.
4. Drain, then rinse interior surfaces and refill. Follow draining instructions in owner's manual. The reason for doing this is because spas are tested with water and when they are shipped there is some water in the plumbing. By super-oxidizing with a  sanitizer during a pre-fill.

Refill Guide

1. Adjust pH (7.2-7.6), total alkalinity (125-150 ppm) and calcium hardness  (100-200 ppm).
2. Apply Teddy Bear Chlorinating Concentrate following label directions. Establish proper chlorine residual of 3-5 ppm.

Weekly Care

• Once spa is filled, start your spa. Add Teddy Bear Stain and Scale Control.
•  Apply Teddy Bear Water Clarifier.
• Test the pH. Acceptable range is 7.2-7.6. Ideal range is 7.4-7.6.
• Test total alkalinity of the water. Proper range is 80-120 ppm.
• Shock your spa with SpaGuard Enhanced Shock or superchlorinate with Teddy Bear Chlorinating Concentrate.

Monthly Care

• Test your water - Bring a sample to Teddy Bear Pools & Spas for analysis.
• Chemically clean your filter with Bear Strip Filter Cleaner.

As Needed

• Drain, clean, polish and refill based on usage.
•  If foaming occurs use Teddy Bear Anti-Foam.

If you have any question about these start-up instructions please call Teddy Bear Pools & Spa at 413-594-2666 or go online www.teddybearpools.com

Swimming pool maintenance and keeping the water safe and clear is a task that faces all pool owners. If maintenance is lacking, the water can quickly become unsanitary, cloudy, uninviting and it is also potentially dangerous. Unsanitary pool water can lead to a variety of bacterial illnesses, respiratory and intestinal infections, diarrhea, ear infections and more.

Although maintaining pool water sanitation may seem daunting at first, it is actually easy once you know the basics. After understanding how pool chemicals work in water and following a few steps each week, pool owners will find it is not hard to maintain the health of the pool water.

What Chlorine Does

Before discussing how to administer chlorine, it will help to have a basic understanding of how it works in pool water. When chlorine dissolves in water it changes to form hypochlorous acid (HOCI) and hypochlorite ions (OCI). Hypochlorous acid is the primary active ingredient in pool water sanitation. When we test for Free Available Chlorine (FAC) this is what we are reading. We manage the FAC to ensure the pool water is safe to swim. Hypochlorous acid combines with any organic matter and/or bacteria and destroys them.

Once destroyed, the organic matter, bacteria, ammonia and nitrogen compounds combines with the chlorine, which causes the chlorine to become relatively inactive and ineffective. This inactive chlorine, changes to form chloramines, which builds up in the pool but does little to aid sanitation. Pool owners must regularly remove the build-up of chloramines. If are not removed through shocking (oxidation), chloramines prevent proper sanitation and become a primary cause of cloudy pool water.

Pool Water Shocking

Super chlorinating the pool water is a process commonly referred to as "shocking" the water. The build-up of chloramines are effectively removed by adding a large amount of chlorine, achieving a chlorine test level at least 5 to 10 parts per million (PPM). This super-chlorination will remove or oxidize the excess contaminants and chloramines.

Administering regular shock treatments is necessary in order to maintain basic sanitation levels. You should designate a particular day of the week to perform the shock treatment so that it becomes a part of your regular routine.

How Much Chlorine for Your Swimming Pool

Since pool chlorine is available in different strengths, the type of chlorine you choose will affect the amount required. Chlorine brands try to distinguish themselves by touting certain advantages of their product over their competitors' products, but the truth is that most chlorine for swimming pools is equally effective. However, your personal preferences and pool type might lead you to choosing one type of pool chlorine above another. Here is a look at some of the most popular types of chlorine on the market.

- Trichlor: Pool chlorine tablets and sticks are Trichloro-S-Triazinetrione (Trichlor) is available in 84-90% concentrations. Placed in the floating chlorine feeders and chlorinators, Trichlor automatically and gradually dissolves into the pool water. The tablets are available in 1" or 3" sizes; the 1" tablets dissolve faster than the larger 3" tablets or the larger sticks. Trichlor is Stabilized chlorine, which means that the chlorine has Cyanuric acid added to help prevent the ultraviolet rays of sunlight from prematurely destroying the chlorine in water. One more note on Trichlor: although some pool owner have been advised to add Trichlor tablets directly into the skimmer basket, this is a bad idea. Since all chlorine is acidic and very corrosive, it can easily harm skimmer baskets, pool pumps, filters and eroded away metal pool heater components.

- Dichlor: Sodium Dichloro-S-Triazinetrione (Dichlor) is available in 56 to 62% concentrations. Dichlor is a granular form of Stabilized chlorine that is pH neutral and does not have to be pre-dissolved. Dichlor is a great option that provides convenience and precise control of the chlorine level in the pool. Dichlor has the advantage of not harming pool liners or pool and spa surfaces. However, Dichlor must be added to the pool water daily and tested more frequently for proper pool sanitation.

- Calcium Hypochlorite: Calcium Hypochlorite (Cal Hypo) is another form of non-stabilized chlorine and is avaliable in concentrations of 65% to 78%. Dissolve granular Cal-Hypo in water prior to use to prevent bleaching or harming of pool components. It is a great oxidizer and a good option for shock treatments. Like Dichlor, calcium hypochlorite also allows for precise control over chlorine levels. The major disadvantage of calcium hypochlorite is that pool water must be tested more frequently and additional chemical added daily for proper sanitation.

Chlorine Stabilizer Cautions

Dichlor and Trichlor have Isocyanuric acid (Cyanuric acid) incorporated because of its ability to help stabilize chlorine against damage from sunlight. However, a high Cyanuric acid (CYA) level, especially above 60 parts per million compromises the effectiveness and the oxidation-reduction potential (ORP) of chlorine. If you decide to use pool chlorine with chlorine stabilizer the CYA will build-up quickly. For every 10 parts per million (PPM) of Free Available Chlorine added using Trichlor, CYA increases by 6 PPM and Dichlor increases by 9 PPM. You will need to test and monitor the chlorine stabilizer CYA level diligently to ensure the level does not get too high. Many pool owners develop chlorine effectiveness issues because if this. To lower the CYA level you must replace existing pool water with fresh water.

The alternatives to swimming pool chlorine containing Cyanuric acid are sodium hypochlorite (liquid pool bleach) and granular calcium hypochlorite. These pool chemicals do not contain chlorine stabilizer and therefore do not have the disadvantage of CYA mentioned above, but they do increase the pH.

Swimming Pool Chlorine Tips

- The least expensive and most popular form of chlorine is 3" tablets. When properly used, 3" tablets may not need attention for a week or more. Test the pool water at least weekly.

- 1" chlorine tablets are well suited for use in automatic chlorinators, above ground pools, small in-ground pools, and spas.

- Granular chlorine is very effective, but it requires a higher level of chemical maintenance.

- Liquid pool bleach is good for pool shock and daily pool sanitizing without raising Cyanuric acid levels. The downside is possible chemical containers leaking during transport and the chemical potency diminishes significantly within a few months.

- You should keep pool chlorine test levels between one to three parts per million at all times. By maintaining that level, your pool will stay in top form throughout the swimming season.

The pool is a salt water pool and is about 18,000 gallons. I live in central texas.

Every day I am checking the chemistry, and the chlorine is spot on (1 to 2ppm), the Alkalinity is 100, the salt level is 2800 or 2900 ppm.

However, the Ph is constantly high 7.8 upto 8.2 which requires 2 to 4 cups of Muriatic Acid to bring down to 7.5.

So thats 2 to 4 cups of Acid EVERYDAY! or just over a Gallon a Week!

What am I doing wrong?

The pool runs for about 8hrs a day, has a raised spa that water trickles over, and has a beach area.

Please help!!
Oh... it also has a DE Filter...

There are a surprising number of options available in pool chlorine today; the swimming pool supply industry has gone to great lengths to satisfy customers looking for convenient, easy, stress-free and mess-free pool maintenance.  More chlorine choices, however, can sometimes mean more confusion for swimming pool owners when it is time to buy.  Here are some tips on what to look for the next time you shop for pool chlorine.

First, a little about chlorine and swimming pool maintenance: Chlorine is a sanitizer that keeps your swimming pool bacteria-free, making it a healthier place for you and your family.  It also helps control algae and organic contaminants (such as those from wind, dust, rain, and people).  Because it oxidizes while it sanitizes, chlorine also gives your swimming pool crystal-clear water, offering a more attractive and inviting appearance to family and visitors to your home.       

• Make sure you get top-quality chlorine pool products with the highest percentage of active chlorine available on the market.  Look for 99% active ingredient, 90% available chlorine in the tablets, sticks, or granular product you buy.    
• Look for pool chlorine that is manufactured and distributed by the same company to ensure freshness.  This is especially important because buying in higher quantities saves you money, so you won't be using what you buy right away.  Companies that manufacture their own chlorine are also able to offer it at discount prices by cutting out the middleman.    
• Whether you buy granular chlorine or chlorine tablets or sticks, make sure the product is UV protected to extend the life of your chlorine.  This will also help with maintaining quality and freshness when you buy chlorine in bulk and store it for an entire season.  Store unused chlorine in a cool, dry space away from your swimming pool.     
• Pool chlorine should dissolve slowly but completely to maintain the proper free available chlorine levels, which keep your pool at its healthiest.  The dissolution rate (it should be slow and consistent) of chlorine is an indicator of the quality it provides toward maintaining your swimming pool.    
• Find a pool supplier that offers discount prices on pool chlorine and become a loyal customer so you'll be informed of sales and special offers.  Follow your pool supplier on Twitter and Facebook so you'll learn about great deals as soon as they become available. 
• Buy chlorine tablets or sticks that are individually wrapped to ensure quality and to make application convenient and mess-free. 
• Make sure you buy chlorine that is safe for use with all types of swimming pools if you have a vinyl-lined pool. 
• The choice to buy sticks, tablets, or granular chlorine is an individual one, so you'll have to decide what works best for you.  Chlorine tablets and sticks provide easy weekly maintenance - just place one or two sticks in a feeder.  Granular chlorine dissolves more quickly; make sure the product you buy does not require pre-mixing and leaves no residue.      

Generally, swimming pool chemicals are chlorine based - bleach, essentially - but come in a bewildering variety of forms. Chlorine attacks germs and bacteria (see? It shares some properties with common household bleach), and putting the correct amount into the pool will prevent such nasties from breeding and causing illness and disease.

Chlorine has a very distinct smell, and it is likely that anyone who has ever ventured into a public pool will know this smell very well indeed.

Despite its largely beneficial properties, some people are allergic to chlorine, and this means that non-chlorine pools are becoming more and more popular. In fact concentrated chlorine can damage human cells - much like concentrated bleach can be bad if left on the skin - and is especially damaging to the eyes. If your etes have ever stung when you come out of the pool then you can appreciate where I'm coming from, here. When diluted the chlorine becomes quite harmless, and it is important therefore to make sure you put the right amount of chlorine in your pool.

There are alternatives to chlorine, but all the chemicals used will either be chlorine or bleach-based. It's a magical chemical that really does do a lot of good for you and your family.