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Hot Tubs - Heater Sizes

Author: Jacuzzi John

 



It is often said that because a Hot Tub Jacuzzi style Spa has a smaller heater it must therefore be a better spa than one which has a bigger and thereby more expensive heater.

The claim that is usually made to justify a smaller heater is that the Jacuzzi with the cheaper Hot Tub heater is better insulated   but the plain simple truth is that a  smaller heater is much less efficient as it takes longer and longer to heat up. This is, in some way, very similar to  a smaller engined car on the highway it can of course get up to a good cruising speed  but a bigger engine will take it all in its stride with plenty of spare capacity in reserve. It is a fact that a bigger engined and well designed and engineered car is often more economical at a higher cruising speed than  a smaller engined one which is over revving and straining its self.  In the same way a bigger heater is able to heat up the water quicker and then only needs to gently top up the heat now and again. The only person who benefits from a smaller heater is the manufacturer who clearly saves lots of money on his manufacturing cost as a smaller heater costs considerably less.

At the same time one often finds that Hot Tubs with small heaters use the fully foamed approach some times known as the a€œfully foameda€ or a€œfoam fillinga€ system this is very much an out of date production method but is still in use by many makers as it is one of the cheapest forms of construction.

In this cheaper system, the shell or Tub of the unit is made from thinner sheets of acrylic or ABS plastic the Tub is then plumbed and piped with all the required pipes etc.

 Then the cabinet that surrounds the Shell is   pumped full of expanding foam to give the shell its support.

This is a much cheaper method of construction as it means that the manufacturer is able to use cheap foam, (instead of fiberglass), to support the shell, rather than building a shell with sufficient strength in the first place!

There are various disadvantages of this system of construction:-

1)      Polyurethane foam which is sprayed in degrades over time, with the effect that there is a real decrease in the insulating value.

 

2)      The settling and heat related expansion and contraction of the foam can actually create leaks in the plumbing.

 

3)      Lastly and very importantly you cannot access any of the internal workings or parts of the spa in the case that service is required. In real terms then the most serious downside to this cheaper method of construction is that there is an almost total inability of serviceability during the life of the Hot Tub. Not only is the plumbing buried and covered by he expanded foam but so of course are the jet fittings. Therefore leak detection is more or less impossible with out removing very substantial amounts of foam... If a fully foamed spa should leak (and of course they do) from the rear of a jet fitting or a plumbing connection then the  seepage of water will not become apparent until the foam has become extremely wet and sodden. The latest and the most modern productions methods, in my view, would be to use some foam to support the pipe work but not to indiscriminately jet blast, the spa cabinet full of polyurethane foam as there is no proven benefit to this practice and it actually does cause dealers and customers a severe service and access headache. 

One can identify the better manufacturers as they will utilize Spa controllers made by the leading Western manufacturers in the world so as to create custom spa packs and topside controls that complement their spa models. These will have built in features that make it so much easier dealing with a spa.

These user-friendly intuitive controls take the guesswork out of spa ownership and are designed for a lifetime of use in harsh climates.

Avoid spas with air controls or spas that do not display the hot tub temperature as a digital read out.

Many spas are produced cheaply by using an inferior quality spa electronic pack.

Unknown brand names or bulk imported packs may not stand the test of time and may be very hard to replace if they break down.

The best advice remains that one should buy a proven product from a well established manufacturer and not a cheap import then you have proven expertise which will have been tested over many years combined with the back up of a Major Western Corporation.
 

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/health-articles/hot-tubs-heater-sizes-728432.html

About the Author

The Author Jacuzzi John markets luxury Hot Tubs in Spain from Marbella and Estepona and for further information please go to his web site at Spain Hot Tubs and for a designer range at Hot Tub Spain


Comments

  1. david m says:

    yes you could as long as you keep the water moving. it will take a long time to warm the water, but once its warm it should stay warm . you will need some way to control the temp. that is all controlled by the mother board in the hot tub as well as safety switches to prevent over heating. you will all so need a pressure Relief valve in the system

  2. OrakTheBold says:

    Hello flagnsnarf:

    You may need to install a low-voltage transformer with a thermostat and a solenoid valve. An automotive thermostat has too high a temperature setting.

  3. thewrangler_sw says:

    Most spas use a heating element… these do go bad every so often. I would recommend that you look up your spa brand and model, find a dealer, and ask about a replacement. You might even be able to talk to the dealer’s service tech, and get pointed in the direction of what to look for….occasionally you find a particular brand or model has a common quirk.

    Good Luck

  4. havanasunrise87 says:

    Hot tub heater question?
    I have an old hot tub, its about 18 years i would say. I have been trying to get it going again (its been about 4 years)…it has the usual problems you would expect..the pump didnt work, but i got it fixed. Everything runs great now…except the heater.

    The top of the hot tub has a thing that tells you that it is calling for the heater to kick in, so a light comes on. But there is no heat. Theres a “heat indicator light” under the hot tub, and it is not coming on at all. Its not the thermistat, i know that cause it calls for heat, the heater just does not come on. Any ideas?

  5. Brady B says:

    Can you use a hot tub heater/pump to heat water for a radiant in floor heating system?

  6. flagnsnarf says:

    what kind of cheap thermostat could I use to control a passive solar water heater for my hot tub?
    I want to build a batch heater or a passive coil system on a painted black corrugated metal backing. But I want to be able to stop the flow when the water gets to a set temp. It would be great to be able to just put in a car radiator thermostat but it would allow the water to get too hot.

  7. tlbs101 says:

    $2000.00

    I’ve looked into replacing my own in the past couple of years.

    You might get off a cheap as $1300. The heater will be the most expensive thing. You can get pumps/motors pretty cheap if you don’t buy through a ‘hot-tub’ outlet — but through a plumbing distributor, or a tool store (Harbor freight, even Sears).

    .

  8. violet s says:

    HOTTUB OWNERS…pump/heater/controller for hot tub…how much would that cost to be replaced?
    Just a “guesstimate” needed.
    Thanks!

  9. јïģģlε ώïτh ÿøυɾ ώïģģlε! says:

    What size water heater do i use for my four person hot tub?
    I moved into a house that has a four person hot tub but has no water heater. What size water heater do i buy? It is a four person tub, im ot sure how many gallons of water it holds though.

  10. Peter W says:

    Our four-person hot-tube requires a 5KW, 240V in-line heater. Which, as it happens, is the same as our 2-person hot-tub. They range from 1.5KW to 5.5KW as standard units.

    For the most part, the heaters are built into the control units – you will see a shiny (stainless steel) tube about 1-1/2″ in diameter as part of the system, usually on the discharge side of the pump, sometimes fully integrated into the controls, sometimes bolted to the bottom, but with the power-connection within the control unit. The heating element (typically a Calrod-type) is within that tube.

    When in doubt, however, or if the unit is more than about 15 years old, it will likely pay you to replace the entire system with a modern digital system that includes in-line sensors and controls. There are _many_ sources for these units. We replaced the controls for both our units (each pushing 20 years old) with Balboa units a few years ago and have been very, very pleased with the results. They were true drop-in replacements that came with all the necessary parts to replace the old unit, controls and cables, and with very simple and clear instructions. All we had to supply was the silicon sealant for the new control head.

    NOTE: Unless you are comfortable around and understand electricity, DO NOT mess with hot-tub control units. You will need a Ground Fault breaker of the correct type and rating for the system you choose, and you will have to make the correct connections per code. Again, unless you know exactly what you are doing – leave this part to an expert. Your life truly depends on it.

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