20A/120V GFCI blank for spa heater (12A), OK to use on a 15A/120V line?


We want to install a heater for our Jacuzzi spa and it requires a GFCI. The instructions say not to use the same 20A/120V GFCI line that the motor is already using, but that's the only 20A line running under the tub.



But there IS the back of an outlet from an adjacent room, that we were thinking we could tap into and connect to a GFCI blank (no outlets, just the GFCI test/reset button), then run the line out to the motor. (We'll expand the current outlet into a 2-gang box and then the GFCI reset will be there in that other room, no biggie.)

But the GFCI blank is rated for 20A.

The outlets in that line are rarely ever used, and certainly would never be used at the same time as the tub.

I'm guessing the reason we can't share the existing 20A line is that the motor is already using most of the 20A, and the heater needs 12A.

We're trying to avoid having to run a new 20A line!

Is it OK to use the higher rated (20A) GFCI breaker on a 15A line?
We're not neophytes with wiring. We rewired most of our house already!

15A, 20A, rewired/relocated/new wired many of our lights, did all the wiring for new additions, etc. My husband used to work do construction work in college, so he does pretty much everything himself. Regular runs, 2-way switches, 3-ways, the works.

He insisted a 20A GFCI would be fine on a 15A circuit, but I just wanted to check, get some other opinions.

We're DIY pros already.

This heater is the final step on our master bath remodel (completed gutted and rebuild from scratch). We didn't think about the heater ahead of time though, or else he would have run a new wire. Now, it's just a bit of a pain. Everything's newly tiled over and finished. (and since I do all the mudwork, there is no way I'm letting him cut more holes in the sheetrock, which he tends to do at the drop of a hat! unless there's just no other options.)

Comments

  1. Electrical Inspector says:

    NO! NEVER!

    A 20 GFCI Circuit Breaker can NEVER be used to protect #14 AWG wiring, which is what is most often installed on a 15 Ampere circuit.

    A GFCI "Dead-front" device is what you are describing, and that, as well as the supply conductors must be sized according to the Ampacity of the heater. The NEC [Article 680.9] requires electric pool heaters to be protected at not less than 125% of their nameplate load; Article 210.19 (A) (1) requires continuous loads to be supplied by conductors sized for the non-continuous load PLUS 125% of the continuous load. Article 210.20 has the same requirement for overcurrent protection. If this is a Spa or Hot Tub, the heater may run for more than 3 hours, making it a continuous load.

    If you're thinking that you're off the hook because I was referencing Electric Pool Heaters, sorry; Article 680.40 (the first Article of 680 Part III) requires Spas and Hot Tubs to meet all requirements of 680 Parts I & II.

    It seems that you need to hire a qualified Licensed Electrical Contractor; you are giving yourselves WAY too much credit. While he is out, have him check the wiring you installed yourselves elsewhere. You seem to have no clue regarding Code or Listing requirements.

    Disconnecting devices for Spas are required to be "in sight from the spa" [NEC Article 680.12], not in the room next door.

    Also, from your description, you do not have a “Spa”, or why would you be installing a heater? I believe what you are referring to is a “hydromassage tub”, meaning you can drain the water and refill the basin using the plumbing system of your house. Either way, you must follow the Manufacturer’s Installation Instructions; failure to do so is a violation of Article 110.3 (B) of the NEC.

    Instead of avoiding the expense of running a 20 Amp circuit with the appropriate protective devices, why don’t you avoid killing yourselves and do it right? I refer you now to NEC Article 90.1 (A) & (C).

    I do not mean to disparage your abilities, but, having to ask this question is a sign that you really are not qualified to undertake this task. PLEASE get your hands on a copy of the National Electrical Code (NFPA 70), and read the Articles I have mentioned. Read all of Articles 680, 250, 110, 210, 220 & all of the definitions in Article 100. Pay very close attention to Article 90.1 (A); that has not been changed in over 110 years. Please also realize that the NEC started out 4 pages long, today the 2005 Hand Book edition is over 1,300 pages long. Almost every change or addition was brought about because people or technology came up with new ways for electricity to kill, maim, and/or burn things down. It is not for armatures or hobbyists. Leave it to qualified professionals. I have seen the results of “Do-it-Yourselfers” end badly too many times.

  2. apple e. m says:

    If you do that the results might make you sorry. Don't do it.Call an electrician to decide on where and how you can have a 20 amp.line. Electricity is dangerous!! It kills!! Caution!!

  3. roadrunnerjim says:

    The 15 amp line will not carry the load. Hopefully the breaker would trip or the fuse would blow if the current draw was too high. It's probably going to cost you about $150 in parts and labor to have the proper line installed by a licensed electrician, much less than the cost of your insurance deductible for a house fire.

  4. newcastleale says:

    No reason you can't do what you described. The 15 amp circuit can handle 12 amps continuous load, and the faceless gfci you described is good for a 15 amp circuit. It doesn't trip by amperage, it trips if there is a ground fault.

    You are right, the motor and the heater together would almost certainly overload the existing 20 amp circuit you have now.

  5. sr71black says:

    you could also see if the motor can be wired to 240 volts..that would greatly reduce the amp draw per wire…

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